Udeepta Phukan, an independent researcher, working on the interplay of memory and emotions in the social life of Northeast India, recently embraced this cradle of happiness – the Ziro Festival of Music! In his traveler’s avatar, he relives some of his choicest memories here on Unakriti and urges you to bump it to the top of your bucket list.
The tranquil presence of Ziro
These days, people are in search of excuses to take a break from their dull and drab routines, to energize their spirits, and rekindle their youthful hearts. What if I were to tell you that the best excuse awaits for you every year in a little-known valley called Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh, pocketed away from the hustle and bustle of the city? Hard to believe? Hop along, as I take you on a jaunt to one of the most unheard of places that blooms to life in one exhilarating music festival.
What makes Ziro so special?
Tucked deep into nature’s lap, and away from the quotidian cacophony of urban life is the sleepy little Ziro Valley in the Lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh. Perched atop serene blue hills, the sight of Ziro Valley abounds with lush green-yellow rice fields spread across a wide expanse; it’s a paradise in hiding for even the best of touristic gazes.
Ziro is home to the Apatani, an animistic tribe that has survived the sweeping effects of civilization by relying on its indigenous knowledge traditions and a strong community-lifestyle. For a long time now, Apatani tribesmen have employed local knowledge for wet-rice cultivation while constantly emphasizing on sustainable agriculture, an interesting case in today’s burgeoning shift towards mechanized agricultural practices.
But the Apatani tribe is known more for its womenfolk, who until a few years back practiced the art of making facial tattoos and inserting large nose-plugs, evoking keen anthropological enquiry among researchers. Legend has it that these women smeared their faces with ink produced from tea saps and put on nose-plugs to prevent themselves from getting kidnapped by marauders from neighbouring belligerent tribes. The veracity of this story is disputable though.
So, in its localness and its largely quite surrounds, does Ziro miss out on fun and frolic? Absolutely not! It supercharges itself, every year, in what’s popularly known as the Ziro Festival of Music or ZFM, when the entire valley relinquishes its isolation and comes alive in an altogether different fashion.
This year, the attendees at ZFM 2018 were in for a surprise. The usual overcast skies made way for the Sun, the first time it has happened since the start of the festival in 2012. Ah, and it was quite a sight to behold, to say the least.
If I could write a short answer, a one-word answer, to the question of ‘what makes Ziro special’, it has to be ZFM. Over the years, Ziro Festival of Music, this one-hell-of-a-music-concert, one of the most soul-unwinding experiences, has grown bigger and better and brought some good publicity for Ziro. No wonder why the state government partially funds this extravaganza!
The how, why, and what of Ziro Festival of Music?
Dubbed as the ‘Woodstock of the East’, ZFM is a fest like no other in India. It brings together people from all over the world – aficionados of music willing to embark on a whooping 18-20 long hours of arduous journey from Guwahati, the largest city in Northeast India. Mountainous terrain, rugged roads, rickety rides, and hairpin bends make up for a tough welcome. But once you brave past these, you land yourself in nothing less than a Shangri-La.
ZFM was the brainchild of Bobby Hano and Menwhopause guitarist Anup Kutty, who in 2012, decided to bring indie music to this distant frontier land. The success of ZFM lies in the fact that it has carved out a niche for itself in the indie music scene, acting as a platform for lesser-known artists and bands to showcase their talents while at the same time inviting established acts to make some buzz.
Lou Majaw, Indus Creed, Damo Suzuki, Lee Ranaldo, Menwhopause, Guru Rewben Mashangva, Steve Shelley, Akkumika, Antione, No Strings Attached, and Shaa’ir n Func, are among the many artists who have graced ZFM.
The USP of ZFM is its democratic set-up: artists and fans freely interact, make merry, and immerse themselves in the pristine atmosphere. There aren’t too many outdoor music fests that cater to such bonhomie. To add to the uniqueness of the fest, there is not one but two stages, named after the animistic religion of the Apatanis—Daanyi Pillo (also known as Donyi Polo). Situated on a hillock, both the day and night stages are eponymously named, as Daanyi stands for the Sun and Pillo stands for the Moon.
For the adventurous, it shouldn’t be much of a problem to try out novelty dishes featuring pork, frogs, and silkworms that the kiosks around the stages sell. Still thinking if you would really want to take a daunting trip to Ziro Valley from wherever you are, just for a music fest? I bet you would, once I tell you that it’s much more than ‘just’ a music fest! Read on.
What I did at Ziro?
Tryst with nature
I am not a morning person per se. The one thing I never like to part with is my bed. Heaven knows how many times I have seen the sunrise in my life! On the first day of the fest, the freshness at Ziro and the call of the morning birds pulled me out of the bed quite early, leaving me surprised that I was able to pull off a mean feat. I woke up sometime around 6 a.m. After quickly freshening up, I took a bicycle from our campsite and told my friends not to expect me to return anytime soon.
I pedaled my way across the fields, through the main paved road that leads to Hong village. The breathtaking view instantly reminded me of a famous song:
The alleys were not empty, for people in Ziro are up and active at the first call of dawn. The best part of the cycling trip was the unavailability of Google Maps to navigate down the road and up the hills. If you are someone who likes to remain connected to the Internet all the time, Ziro will give you a hard time. But if you resolve not to let your phones get the better of you, then well, Ziro is all-inviting.
It doesn’t hurt to occasionally turn on the radio silence mode, does it? The weariness of the debilitating journey of the earlier day hadn’t worn off. But I was all too excited to check out what Ziro had in store for us connoisseurs of travel and adventure.
Parking my cycle at a local store, I strode past the alleys with heavy steps. Suddenly a kid popped up from nowhere, and let me know that his mother extended an invite for breakfast. I had read somewhere that when invited by an Apatani household, it’s silly not to accept the offer.
Indeed, the hospitality offered to me was out of this world! I tasted a local delicacy called pike pilla, which was a fitting complement to the chilly weather. These households are the epitome of community-living, that bespeaks an equal affective involvement on the part of each family member by the fireplace.
I witnessed a music festival
My timepiece reminded me that I should get going, as the day stage was to go live in about an hour and a half. I hurried to the venue, breezing my way through the meadows to reach the site where the action was to begin. By the time I reached, people were already thronging the tiny hillock in their carnivalesque moods. Here I should mention that both the stages—the Daanyi and the Pillo—create totally different vibes.
The daytime event was relatively sober. It began at noon and featured mostly the local indie acts. The atmosphere was chill, and the aura was spellbinding. After the hour-long break following the end of the daytime event, I moved over to the other stage and I could see that the groove started to set in.
The night stage is motley mix of musical genres, right from your jazz and hip-hop to ska and beyond. You are able to feel the pulse of the moment, and the setting gets electrified. People are seen indulging in a drink or two, sipping their beers to their last dregs. Lovely, isn’t it?
Where to camp in Ziro?
A good campsite creates a harmonious space that promotes sustainable eco-tourism. Moreover, while traveling to the festival, you’d also want to explore nearby places, learn about local lifestyle, and in general have fun with fellow revelers. There are many things to do in Ziro.
You could go on a heritage-walk to the Apatani villages, go on a food-tasting spree (yes, the local brew rice beer too!), find out about local irrigation and farming techniques, and go fishing with bare hands in marshy rice fields. Phew! Tolkien fans would be delighted, for Ziro has all the elements of Middle Earth.
On your next visit, you could try Camp Zingaros, a site hosted by Discover Northeast. They had things sorted out to the detail of usual serenades by the bonfire!
What is ZFM doing better than the other music festivals?
ZFM, in partnership with the local Apatani Youth Association (AYA), has made elaborate attempts to create a sustainable design framework. It has roped in Kollol Brahmadutta, a bamboo architect, who is in charge of stage design to make them environmentally viable. The ecological connection that the Apatani tribe shares with the landscape is very well integrated in the arena.
ZFM doesn’t seem to shy away from upholding community-living practices and it sure has made a statement—you can’t take it all from nature, you also have to give something back. I urge you guys to see for yourself, how ZFM is managed as a Zero Waste Festival. Ingenious, so to say.
Ziro Festival of Music echoes the sentiments of the hills and its people—this is a place for relationships. I spent four days forging some ever-lasting bonds and listening to my campmates narrate their stock of stories, accompanied by strums of the guitar. Would you want to miss out on any of that? Hell, no!
So, what are you guys waiting for? Start planning from now, and you might just land up in Ziro next year, right in time for the festival. The nippy air, the feeling of being peacefully happy, and the promise of a culturally rich landscape that will take your senses by awe is just too much reason on why you shouldn’t call it a shot.
Think North East India
For those who do not know, Northeast India comprises of eight states – Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim, and Tripura. The Himalayas and its waters define the region’s terrain, climate, rich biodiversity, and the peculiar indigenous lifestyles her people follow.
That North East India is bound by Bhutan, Nepal, and Tibet to the north, Bangladesh to the south and west, and Myanmar to the east hints at the eclectic mix of cultural, ethnic, and linguistic diversity. This is where elements of Asia come together to do what they do best – cast a spell.
The region’s innate charms have remained under-explored. Travelers, who figure out how to backpack Northeast India, find gems such as Dzükou Valley all to themselves. Importantly, the hospitable people of the region make sure that visitors take back the choicest of memories.
Amazon India, Amazon US, Kindle, Apple iTunes, Flipkart, Google Playstore, Infibeam, Kobo, NotionPress
Meanwhile, pick up a copy of Backpacking North East India: A Curious Journey. It covers over two dozen places and attempts to answer the question – what is it like to travel in the region? Give it a read and make your own choices. Buy now!
Pin this for later!
Have you witnessed the Ziro Festival of Music? How was your experience? We would love to hear from you.
Udeepta Phukan
Udeepta Phukan, associate at Discover Northeast, is an independent researcher currently working on the interplay of memory and emotions in the social life of Northeast India. Born and bred in a tea estate in far eastern Assam, his favorite hobby is to lose his way in the labyrinthine tea bushes in search of the quintessential ‘two leaves and a bud’. Talking to him about global affairs is the best way to keep him engaged.
Disclaimers: (1) Maps, wherever used on this site, serve a representational purpose only. Unakriti does not endorse or accept the boundaries shown, names, or designations used by map providers. (2) This story / article is based on personal opinions of the author. Unakriti is not responsible for the accuracy, completeness, suitability, or validity and it does not assume any responsibility or liability arising out of use of any information provided herein.
To be honest, I’m not a big fan of music festival. But this one… OMG! It’s amazing! I’d love to give it a try. It sounds such a unique experience.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing that Maria. Appreciate it.
It’s so lovely to read about a particular music festival in a place you would not normally venture too! This sounds like worth visiting – thanks for bringing it under my attention 🙂
Thank you for your kind words Noraly.
What a unique experience! I like the idea of the festival being so intertwined with nature instead of in a crowded city where most festivals like this take place.
You are so right! Its has a different experience all together.
This festival sounds like one of a kind. And probably the best part of it is that there is no Internet connection and people can finally connect with each other and with the music!
Yes, an opportunity to interact with other travelers and locals. Thanks for sharing.
That looks like an extremely beautiful place for a music festival! Would love to try it out. And I always appreciate the attempts of music festivals to become more and more sustainable each year. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Zenja! Yes it does 🙂
This sounds like a great festival. I love how it encompasses so much in a great, outdoor venue!
You are right Jenn. It is truly unique.
Wow, how many people usually attend this music festival each year? It sounds really difficult to get to and find, but totally worth it. I would also like to try all adventurous food options! 🙂
Plan for it Sarah. About a few thousand of them and the number is increasing each year.
Ziro sounds like an amazing cultural destination and to add a music festival on top of that makes me really want to go! The trip there does sound a little daunting but your post makes it sound very worthwhile 🙂
It definitely is. Thanks for sharing.
This way of traveling is so far from mine yet so fascinating to me! I have never slept in a tent at a music festival but I am always an avid reader of other’s experiences far from mine.
Well, you can try that here. Thank you for stopping by.
You know, during my early days of backpacking I used to organize camping at Ziro festival. I got to spent three glorious years in Ziro. Your blog returned those memories.
That’s wonderful Anshul. Must have been amazing for you! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing – I’ve not heard of this festival before – It looks fantastic – great post!
Thanks for stopping by Mel. Happy to know that.
This reminds me of Sagada, the Shangri-la of Philippines. I can imagine how relaxing to walk in Ziro and experience their festival, plus you get to experience their rice beer too.
Absolutely agree with you. Thank you.
I am a big fan of Music festivals and it is always great to see and read about such festivals from any other corner of the world. The Ziro Festival of Music sounds like a really cool event and i would like to experience such an Indian music event on my own for sure! I would definitely keep this festival in mind when I hopefully should visit this region of India in the future.
Thank you Hendrik. Appreciate that.
Very interesting and detailed post about Ziro. I’d never heard about this place, let alone the music scene yet reading about the people, the hospitality, the scenery really makes me want to go check it out. thanks!
Thanks Smita. Hope you do that soon.
This is crazy. Music festival in North-east ! I have never been to Arunachal … this festival sounds so mysterious.. thank you so much to share with us.
Happy to hear that Bharat. Thanks.
I am SO GLAD you put Ziro on my radar, as I had no idea of its existence. As a fellow backpacker, I love to experience “off-the-beaten-path” communities that rely on each other instead of machines. ZFM sounds right up my ally and it amazes me that they managed to create a zero-waste music festival! What a collection of people and music that must bring together! Definitely added on my list of experiences 🙂
Thank you Amanda for your kind words. We are happy you discovered a new event and added another experience on your list! Happy travels 🙂
Great music to read about. I certainly wouldn’t mind visiting the Woodstock of the East!! Thanks for sharing.
Go for it Alan. Thanks much.
I love music festivals and Ziro looks like a lot of fun! How many people does it usually accommodate?
The concerts are in the open and its huge to accommodate the increasing number of travelers year on year.
What a great information about this music festival of the east. I’m also not a huge fan of music festivals, but I acknowledged the opportunities it brings to the stakeholders. As long as it promotes responsible tourism, am all in!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts Blair.
Haven’t heard of this but this sounds so incredible. Knowing that Ziro is set in a beautiful landscape away from basically anything would make the experience unique. I love the fact that also celebrate local cultures there.
Go for it Jen! Its a total celebration and an experience for life! Plan for ZFM next year 🙂
First time I heard about this festival. The fact that it is indie in any way really makes me wanna visit it one day… this seems to be a more laid-back & eco festival than the “Burg Herzberg” one here in Germany (I often go to)
Yes, it is relaxing and fun at the same time. Thanks for sharing.
I had visited Ziro around March 2018 and I was amazed to see the agricultural innovation of the indigenous people. Also, the tattoos on the faces of the Apatani tribe is very intriguing. From your post, I get the feeling that Ziro music festival is quite vibrant 🙂
It indeed is Richa, A reason to go back. Thanks for sharing your insights.
I never heard about this festival before but this sounds incredible. Just looking at those beautiful landscapes makes the experience worthwhile if you ask me. The the fact that it celebrates local cultures makes it even more appealing and the attempts of trying to become more sustainable every year is a big plus.
Absolutely Daniel. Appreciate that.
Thanks for sharing this blog. Music festival sounds very unique. After reading this article I must visit this festival and witness this music festival.
Definitely. Plan for it.
I have seen some music concerts and enjoy live music concerts. This Ziro Music festival looks very unique and something very different which I have not witnessed earlier. Though it is a long drive from Guhawati it would be really a worth visiting as I can listen to some of the music from the hillside. I also loved the concept of Dannyi Pillo and setting two stages classified according to day and night. Thanks for sharing the wonderful guide on Ziro Music Festival.
Thank you Yukti !
Ziro Valley seems like a very unique place. I want to see that grafitti wall in person and have my photo taken. I rember having a photo to a graffiti wall in Melbourne. I hope I can do the same in Ziro once I visited it in the future.
We hope so too. A picture for the keeps 🙂
its been on my bucketlist to attend a music festival weekend but i havent heard of this one before!
Now you can plan for it. Thank you for stopping by.
I never heard about this festival, it looks really chill. I really prefer the concerts in nature as well. Adding to my bucket list!
Happy to see your list grow Goncha. Cheers.
I’m amazed that this is the first time I hear about the Ziro festival. I want to go there and experience it all (minus the silkworm snacks, actually). This is certainly going on my bucket list.
Haha. Well you will have many culinary options. Go for it. Cheers.
Wow! I just love how yu capture the flavour of north east in this blog. This festival is so amazing
Thank you Sinjana. Appreciate it.
In my research for food recipes from this region (I am also a chef and food blogger) I have often read about the tribal communities of the northeast states. It must be such a fascinating part of India to visit.
It definitely is Mireille. 🙂
It seems that Ziro Valley has it all: spectacular scenery and an amazing music festival. Count me in!
You are absolutely right Maria. Top that up with amazing food and experiencing the lifestyle! Go for it 🙂
An amazing festival I the heart of nature and one which I would love to attend someday being a great lover of music. Not the easiest to get to as a long drive from Guwahati but I guess its worth that pain. Love the way it is done with such love for nature and the elaborate attempts to create a sustainable design framework from natural products. Thanks for sharing this great festive with the world.
Thank you for your kind words. It will surely be be worth it !
Never heard of this festival but it looks like fun! And the location is quite amazing. Combination of good music, nature and food are the best!
That’s so correct. Thanks for sharing.
We’ve been to lots of music festivals together but mainly at home – it’s not always easy to find them on our travels unless we really plan in advance. Ziro Festival looks like it would be a fantastic experience, and the surrounding scenery looks beautiful. Thank you for educating me about this!
Glad to hear that Alex. Thanks much.
This is something that never crossed my mind during traveling, but I enjoyed reading the post as I learned something new. The combination of the music festival with the landscape of the city was smart. The view of stages around yellow rice fields look incredible. And look at those food vendors. I would like to try the pork and frogs, but not sure about the silkworms. Haha…
Thanks for sharing, May be you can plan for it in the coming year Umiko. Cheers.
I love hearing about unique experiences in places you would never even think about! This looks like so much fun and the area looks like a blast too!
It indeed is Kelsey. Thanks much.
I was invited to the Ziro Festival too. However, due to prior commitments, I had to miss it. I am so glad to read your review. It looks like a great festival set amidst great nature. While I couldn’t attend it this year, I would love to attend it next year. And, wish I too get lucky like you to get sunny skies.
Good news is it happens every year! Thank you for your kind words! And we hope you get to be a part of this amazing event next time.
This absolutely my kinda festival I would love! Haven’t been in India yet, but I know which place and time I will keep in mind.. Than you for sharing such a gem! 🙂
Glad to hear that Ray! 🙂
Never heard of the Ziro festival before this. But that just goes on to show how less I know of this amazing country that I was born into. I understand it is a little difficult to get to. But I am sure I am going to do this at least once in my life.
Ziro is well connected with road and you get many cab services, private and shared to get here. Plus during the festival time, if you go with an agency, they can also manage the support. Hope you plan to travel here.